sharpendphotography : personal » climbing » hotline, oct 07 Up one level
a rare photo of me, seen here following the first pitch, a fun mix of laybacking and jug climbing with a 10c roof pull to a finger crack. approaching the belay after pulling the roof. dylan took the first and second pitches, including the crux 12a dyke traverse, so that left me with the chore of climbing this amazing splitter. 100 feet of straight-in jamming. a short stretch of 0.75 hands (~10b) followed by #2 enduro heaven. a flaring and dirty 12a finger variation is off to the left... why you would climb that when this beauty is just a few meters away is beyond me. enjoying every minute of it!
part of my
so who wants to go back with me and do the route in two parties?! your face(s) would definitely grace the inside of climbing magazine.
dylan heading up the fun P4, which has its own perfectly good splitter.
near the top, the route has two variations: an 11d roof crack through some flaring hands and fists to thin laybacking (straight up), or a flaring, bombay 10d chimney (off to the right). the roof looked hard when i got to it, so i headed for the chimney. big mistake! the pro was really hard to place and the moves near the exit were too much for me. i gained about 6 inches and lost over an hour trying to aid through the crux, and finally lowered so dylan could give it a try. he french-free'd the crux in style (if that's possible). dylan and the cookie just before rapping.

all images © bryan zeitler // photos last dumped on 10.29.07 // created and maintained using JAlbum 5.2